Yesterday I attached the undercarriages, and glued on wheels, which were discs punched from a styrene sheet with the Missus' hole punch. Last night I attached the main guns (using angel hair pasta and epoxy) to each tank turret, then primed all pieces white.
Tonight I will hopefully have some time to paint each tank hull and turret and glue everything together. Until then, here's some shots of the primed pieces of one tank (turret not glued, just sitting on the hull).
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| Starting to look like tanks... |
I had a question from reader yojimbo regarding what I mean by impression mold. I wasn't being entirely clear to the non-moldmaking public, so below is a picture of the impression molds used to make the turrets and one hull of these tanks. Sometimes (like with these tanks) I just press the Super-Sculpey shapes into the clay to form the impression but other times on "bigger" projects, like an 80mm spaceship, I'll push a piece of polystyrene scrap into the clay first. The scrap plastic is used just to make the initial impression, and is cut in the outline of the ship. Then I'll use the Super-Sculpey stamps to detail the inner walls of the depression. Final note, the mold clay is not polymer clay (like the stamps) but Plastalina modeling clay.
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| Impression molds, post-casting |
This tank is so coool looking, BRAVO man XD
ReplyDeleteI need to learn this
Use talc powder (not corn starch) to release the imprints into the skulpy you want to turn into armor.
ReplyDeleteYou CAN use Skulpy to make your models- I have.
Thanks for the tip. I've also made impression mold castings out of Sculpey, without even needing a release powder. I did not get the fidelity of detail I would've liked however. I prefer resin for the final model, which cannot be poured into an unbaked polymer clay mold as the exothermic reaction of the resin curing causes the Sculpey to "bake" in a thin layer on the resin.
Delete