30 April 2012

Hot Glue Molding and Scratchbuild Micro-Armor

Last post I introduced my new rules for sci-fi tank combat and mentioned scratchbuilding some fighting vehicles for the playtest.  I got started today and by utilizing some new techniques, namely molding with hot glue and casting with plumber's epoxy, I was able to finish the first model in a single day.  Fast yes, but as you can see by the pictures below, very crude.  Still, I'm posting here in tutorial form so others can make their own judgements without having to spend the time and materials themselves.

Crude, but obviously a tank

First I made impressions in Sculpey polymer clay of the left and right tracks and wheels, the main hull, and the turret.  This is the true sculpting part and I can't offer too much advice here without sounding esoteric...you just have to visualize what the positive image will look like while making these negative impressions.  After the impressions were complete I put barriers around the impressions and filled the whole area with water-putty, creating a bas-relief-like slab with the tank's components jutting out.  This is exactly how I make my spaceships now.

Tracks and wheels



Blurry shot of putty masters

The putty cured and I removed the slabs from the polymer clay.  Normally at this point I make a mold of the raised part using naphtha-thinned silicone caulk.  Tonight however I decided to mold with hot-glue.  I neglected to get any pictures of my molds, but they were moderately detailed though nothing like silicone.  The huge benefit from hot-glue molding however is the short preparation time: 10-15 minutes for the glue to cool versus the 24 hour cure time of silicone.

Since I could tell the molds didn't have the detail I wanted, I decided to continue experimenting, this time with casting material.  Keeping with the theme of speed I mixed up plumber's epoxy and pushed it into the glue molds.  Plumber's epoxy may be grainy, but it cures rock-hard in 5 to 15 minutes.  When the parts cured I pulled them from the molds.  Due to my lack of mold release on the putty masters, the hot-glue molds had putty in them, obscuring some detail.  Still the parts obviously represented a tank, so I assembled them (with more putty) and added the gun barrel.  With a paint job and about a meter distance from the observer I don't think it would look too bad.

Although the model above is extremely crude, I'm pleased.  I know that the tank's details look poor because of the molding and casting materials, and I know from my spaceship building that the silicone-resin combination, in contrast, preserves very sharp details.  And although the blurry picture of the masters doesn't show it, the putty sculpts are nice and sharp.  I've never made ground vehicles before, only spaceships, but the techniques carried over nicely.  So hopefully I'll find some time in my schedule to make another master (I want bigger tracks), make a proper silicone mold, and cast in resin.    


  1. Almost like a 'rapid prototyping' technique... very interesting. Thanks for showing us this.


  2. You can try Gypsum products such as dental plaster....

  3. Great job. Your method of sculpting the tank is very clever. I would have never thought to do it that way. I think it turned out pretty well.

    1. Thanks Chris. I'm not skilled enough to simply sculpt it out with epoxy like the professionals, but I've found at these smaller scales I can "fake" it with the impression method.

  4. This reminds me of Oyumaru, look it up. Some kind of "plastic" you heat in water, and then press against things you want to copy. Then you fill the moulds with epoxy and let it harden. So fast as hot glue, but reusable.

  5. Hi good work

    I have made a 1 cm long tank model from das mass accoring to your ideas.

    I can sent you photos if you give me your e-mail. my is: janko.kosel@gmail.com

    1. Thanks! I'd rather not give out my email if I can avoid it. Can you post pictures of your work somewhere online, like Starship Combat News, The Miniatures Page (if you can stand going there), or BoardGameGeek?

    2. I will post on this threade a dropbox link for you to open.
      I will do this with a 3 day delay because I need to get my new camera batteries

    3. I remebered, that I have some old photos of an aircraft I have made 2 mounths before from das mass. Its 1.5 cm long and I have a negative so I can make copies at my will.
      Here is a link:

    4. Here is one photo of the tank with my mobile phone. Other photos were blury.
      I will sent you other photos when i recharge my camera.

    5. Am very happy with this tank, its ideal for my board game :) so thank you for the ideas again :)

    6. Cool! The tank looks good. Glad I could help. I'll post the pic of your tank on this blog if you don't mind.

    7. Thank you very much :)
      It would be an honour!
      However, if you wait a bit I will sent you better photos soon! and you can post those. what do you think of the plane :)?

    8. The airplane is great! How did you sculpt it? Just by hand?

    9. some additional photos of the tank:

  6. Thanks a lot :D

    Everything is hand made (the negatives, the plane...) however I did help myself with some simple tools (rulers, knifes and toothpicks :) )

    The proces is simple. I make the negatives from das mass. When it hardens I then press in the fresh soft das mass into the hardened negatives. For this the fresh das mass must be right from the packing (because if its too moisture it will stick on the negative; if its too dry it will have a lot of crackes). Immediately after I press in the fresh mass I full it out from the negative so it will harded outside the negative. This way I can produce a lot of parts with a single negative! in a short amount of time.

    This air craft is a dive bomber (similar to Harrier plane). I also made a normal fighter.
    Here are some pics of it:


    Later (hopefully soon :) ) I will sent you photos of negatives for the planes and for the tank! :)