I've made quite a few silicone molds since then utilizing Alumilite's HS3 10:1 silicone, with some successes and some failures. Regardless of the outcome the fundamental take-away each time is that mold design, with regard to air-flow, dictates success and failure. Armed with my new knowledge, I decided to try some more experiments with the red RTV.
My attempt at making a two-part mold using this RTV failed. Even with a mother-mold around the two rubber mold-halves the casts just didn't come out right. Most of the time the halves didn't line up right and the metal leaked out, but the few times I got the mold to fill resulted in massive amounts of flash.
I abandoned that dream and decided to attempt a one-sided mold. This is where this RTV shines! I laid down a bead of rubber in a container (scrap plastic from a milk jug) and gently but firmly pressed a spaceship miniature I sculpted into the RTV silicone. I then put it under my 34 watt lamp to accelerate the curing. This rubber is terribly sticky and impossible to brush or spread on, but is very easy to press objects into. Unlike window caulk silicone, this rubber comes out of the tube with very few if any air bubbles.
I pulled the spaceship miniature out of the rubber 24 hours later (versus 48 hours with the 10:1 silicone) and the mold captured every detail. Whenever I mix up water-putty for a new spaceship design, I use 2.5 teaspoons of putty and 1 teaspoon of water. This may sound like a miniscule amount, but out of that amount I actually only use a thimble-full of putty mix for a 60mm to 80mm long spaceship. I therefore always have extra putty I need to get rid of that I'm loathe to waste. I can use these one-sided molds to make casts using this extra putty and increase the size of my fleets geometrically.
The two pictures below show an example of this. I mixed some putty for a new destroyer design twice, once for the upper hull and once for the lower. I also mixed some putty up for a mother-mold for a separate mold experiment. Each time I poured the excess putty in the red RTV mold pictured below. Now I have three new ships! Since this mold was an experiment I only made a mold of the top half of the ship, but in the future I will mold both the top and bottoms separately and then pour excess in each mold, finally joining the putty halves with a few drops of CA glue.
The advantage of this silicone is its cheapness, $5.00 or so, and availability. If I want to go grab a tube of red RTV at 2AM, I only need to drive to Walmart. Since I don't plan on casting in hot metal using this rubber, perhaps I'll try one of the other colored automotive RTVs from the same manufacturer. I'm off to buy another tube; I plan on making molds of my missile counters.
| Good view of mold |
| Better shot of ships, crappy shot of mold |
Pahoota,
ReplyDeleteI'm considering starting creating some starships my own, as you do.
Could you give me an step by step of how you do it (the material I need, how to go about using it, etc.)?
Thanks!
Sure, no problem. If you read through my posts tagged with "scratchbuild" it will explain all the steps. I realize however that's a lot to dig through, so I'll try to do a number of step-by-step posts that show the process. I've got a ton of studying to do for work this weekend, so I don't know when I'll make the first post, but I'll try to get on it for you.
ReplyDeleteThanks for looking!
How many molds do you get out of the tube of red rtv?
ReplyDeleteNot too many, maybe six top and bottom hulls. So three 50 to 80mm long spaceship molds. I take back what I said about it being cheaper. If you use a 40% off coupon at Hobby Lobby, you can pick up a pound of Alumilite HS3 dedicated mold-making silicone for about $20.00. It takes longer to cure, but you can get 20 or more spaceship molds out of it. The red RTV works well if you need a mold immediately and Hobby Lobby is closed or too far away.
ReplyDeletePahoota, about 8 months ago I had the same idea as you and I had already had some experience with Smooth-On's Mold Max 60 another Red Silicone.
ReplyDeleteThe Thing I did differently was I had patience and only put it on in thin layers of the Automotive RTV. My parts were half submersed in clay.
By putting the RTV on in Layers I was able to maintain a smooth face with line up beads.
After the first half dried (Btw which took a week of layering) I had a 2" thick By 5x5" block with my mini in it.
The only drawback was when I poured the pewter in the mold the rtv did not stand up to well and began to deteriorate after about 3 pours. I have not however attempted to pour any plastic or plaster versions from the mold or making a new one.
Good luck on future endeavors
Sincerely, Shadow Weaver